When you peruse a Nutrition Facts label, what’s the first thing you look for? One guess: the sugar content. If that’s the case, you’re in good company. According to the International Food Information Council’s (IFIC) 2022 Food and Health Survey, 73% of Americans are either trying to limit or avoid sugar in their diet, and 67% are avoiding added sugars. In fact, according to this same survey, “low in sugar” is one of the top attributes associated with healthy food, just behind “fresh.”

A sweetener-claim impact study sponsored by Cargill in 2022 offered similar insights, with 62% of American shoppers reporting that they are likely to check the amount of sugar before purchasing a product. But the study also found that shoppers were more likely to check the sugar content of prospective products rather than search for a specific type of sweetener in a product. So, is this bad for alternative sweeteners such as stevia and monk fruit? Not necessarily.

“More than anything, it highlights how important sugar content has become to consumers,” says Carla Saunders, Cargill’s senior marketing manager of high-intensity sweeteners. “Today’s shoppers are more aware of how much sugar they’re consuming—especially given recent label changes.”

This awareness of sugar content and the desire for less or none of it is in fact a huge opportunity for alternative sweeteners, which remain an important tool for sugar reduction, whether consumers are looking for it or not. “Stevia is one of the leading ingredients that can help brands limit sugars, and it may be used across many food and beverage applications. It’s also perceived positively by consumers, another reason why we continue to see high demand for this sweetener,” Saunders says.

Citing figures from Nielsen for the year ending December 3, 2022, Saunders continues: “In the U.S., retail sales of stevia-sweetened foods and beverages totaled nearly $4.6 billion in 2022, and they are growing at a CAGR of 14% (2018-2022). That’s a pace that outperforms category growth by 3-5 times and shows no signs of slowing.”

Other sweeteners such as monkfruit and erythritol are seeing high dollar growth as well. According to NielsenIQ Product Insight data, extended all-outlet combined, in the 52 weeks ending February 5, 2022, monkfruit saw 70% sales growth and erythritol saw 40% sales growth, compared to two years ago. IFIC’s 2022 Health and Food Survey states that Gen Z and millennials are more likely to prefer low- or no-calorie sweeteners compared to Gen X and Boomers. That said, claims such as “‘no artificial sweeteners,’ ‘made with a natural sweetener,’ and ‘no sugar added’ all rise to the top, regardless of demographics,” explains Saunders, citing Cargill’s claim-impact study.

What’s paramount, however, is taste and texture. Consumers are no longer willing to compromise on these aspects when it comes to sugar reduction and the use of alternative sweeteners. “Without question, taste is king,” says Saunders. “Today’s consumers have high expectations. They want products that taste great and have appealing textures and mouthfeel—and they’re also paying closer attention to the Nutrition Facts panel. Improved ingredient technology allows brands to deliver on both asks, enabling deeper reductions in sugar across a broad range of applications while also creating products with better taste.”

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Consumers are actively reducing sugar in their diets, but that doesn’t mean they don’t want sweetness.

Alternative sweetener options grow as consumers demand less sugar

In this day and age, one hopes that consumers understand that when Rod Stewart sang “Forever Young,” he wasn’t talking about finding the fountain of youth.

It’s commendable that the dietary supplement industry has been in the camp of aging gracefully for quite a while now rather than denying that aging actually exists.

According to Catherine Kwik-Uribe, PhD, Nutrition21’s (Harrison, NY) vice president of scientific and regulatory affairs, “Consumers are well aware [of the role] that good nutrition plays in their overall health, and in recent years, this awareness has extended to recognition that specific foods and supplements can play a key role in the look and health of their skin and hair.”

Kwik-Uribe believes that “this is particularly important when gaps in the diet—things like stress, motherhood, and general aging—affect how skin and hair can look and feel. As a result, we are seeing that consumers are increasingly interested in finding dietary approaches, including supplements, that can offer trusted solutions that can make them feel and look their best.”

Andrea Zangara, head of scientific communication and medical affairs at Euromed (Mollet del Vallès, Spain), finds that aging and associated skin changes are motivators for consumers to “seek out nutritional solutions to improve the appearance of their skin, recognizing that it reflects their age and overall health. As consumers become better educated about the correlation between skin health and nutrition, they understand how nutricosmetics work from within.”

As Paula Simpson, BSc in nutritional sciences, RNCP, R. Herbalist, founder of Nutribloom, sees it, “Clinical research on nutricosmetics has steadily grown over the last 20 years. What started with ingredients, then moving to finished products, the quality of evidence and clinical design has improved.” She says this “has helped identify the unique chemical properties and mechanism of action of how ingredients or finished products work within.”

Kwik-Uribe says that for decades, “beauty-from-within has been based on a handful of common/conventional nutrients—vitamin C, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin E, biotin—marketed with hair, skin, and nail benefits.” However, Kwik-Uribe is pleased that the category is evolving. She explains that “rather than repackaging the same nutrients, innovation is needed.” She counts Nutrition21 among those innovators, with its 2021 introduction of Lustriva, which delivers novel forms of biotin and silicon into this growing market.

Zangara sees strong opportunities for botanical extracts, too, especially given the growing interest in plant-based products. He calls this market development “not surprising, given the fact that botanical compounds are regarded as a health-supporting gift from Mother Nature.”

The Holistic Approach Paves a Path Forward

It’s not only the ingredients themselves that are expanding; it’s the broader approach to how companies—and consumers—are increasingly viewing the beauty category. As with other categories in the supplement industry, beauty-from-within ingredient suppliers and product manufacturers are taking a holistic approach to bringing new ingredients to market—and to marketing itself. Whether you call it “nutricosmetics” or “nutribeauty,” and categorize it as “beauty from the inside out” or “beauty from within,” it’s the understanding that what’s at its heart is this: how healthy we are can have an impact on how healthy we look and feel.

“The positive is that the beauty-from-within category has gained attention from consumers as they search for more-holistic solutions to health and wellness,” states Lauren Eisen, PMP, marketing and business development manager for minerals and nutrients at Balchem Corp. (New Hampton, NY). Now under the Balchem banner, what was formerly Bergstrom Nutrition’s branded ingredient, OptiMSM methylsulfonylmethane (MSM), provides a source of sulfur, supporting skin’s structural framework, appearance, and condition, as well as maintaining healthy hair, she says.

“Evidence for MSM’s benefits for skin and hair health have existed for years,” Eisen says. “As millennials and baby boomers are aging, they are not only looking to improve their appearance topically but also improve overall skin health from inside out for healthy aging.”

The focus in this space, agrees Alice Olufeso, senior product manager, food and health, Europe, at Mibelle Biochemistry (Buchs, Switzerland), lies in beauty-from-within products. The fact is, however, that there are so many other directions possible—including in the antiaging space, for example. “Here, we not only talk about the skin but also other aging-related topics such as memory and cognitive function, slow metabolism, or hair loss,” she adds.

Mibelle counts among its branded ingredients for nutraceuticals, food supplements, and functional foods FenuKale Nu and DracoBelle Nu, both of which work for beauty-from-within and healthy-aging applications, given their science-based parameters of skin protection and improvement.

Verdure Sciences (Noblesville, IN) reminds us that it’s not just the ingredients that add luster to hair, strength to nails, or suppleness to skin that constitute what the shifting beauty business is—or can be—all about. “Beauty is a uniquely broad well-being category,” says Antonio King, digital marketing specialist at Verdure Sciences, “and with this lies the ability to offer tangible health benefits through a vast number of avenues.”

In other words, it’s figuring out the extension of which ingredients and benefits impact beauty overall, and then shifting marketing messages. For example, while Verdure’s branded pomegranate extract ingredient, Pomella, may be thought of first for its beauty-from-within benefits because of its positive impact on skin, for starters, King wants us to also look at “the range of applications for beauty,” including the “restful and restorative sleep and alertness upon waking” benefits of another Verdure ingredient, Bacognize 

 And King is bringing receipts. He shares that a recent study on Bacognize suggests that the proprietary ingredient “supports the opportunity to promote restful, restorative, and rejuvenating sleep, allowing individuals to wake up feeling refreshed and energized without feeling groggy or tired when waking up.”

So, when your mother told you to get your beauty sleep, she wasn’t wrong, because, truth be told, who among us doesn’t feel—and look—more beautiful after a restful night?

Euromed’s Zangara takes it a step further, advising that “the concept of beauty has evolved to encompass a holistic approach that connects beauty with overall health and well-being. Nutricosmetics, or beauty-from-within products, emphasize the interconnection between beauty and health.” He claims that “one example is the relationship between cardiovascular health and beauty, as proper blood circulation promotes healthy skin, hair, and nails.”

Stress, too, says Zangara, “can accelerate aging and affect our appearance, highlighting the need for stress-management techniques. And the gut microbiome influences skin health, emphasizing the importance of a healthy gut through diet and probiotics.”

Antonio Vendrell, marketing director for Bioiberica (Barcelona, Spain), ties the nutribeauty category’s exponential growth in recent years to how increasingly aware consumers are of how traditional beauty is linked to their holistic well-being and health.

The Four Ss for Success: Synergy, Science, Substantiation, and Safety

Simpson says, “When we consume a food, it is the synergy of nutrients that work together to support our health. For nutricosmetics, targeted ingredients can work in the same manner.” And, she advises, that “through establishing a better understanding via clinical research, we can identify how nutricosmetics work differently over topical care alone.”

Mibelle Biochemistry manufactures branded ingredients for nutricosmetics and cosmeceuticals. And Olufeso shares that “we see greater opportunities in nutricosmetics.” Here’s why: “The cosmeceutical space is already very well established, with many innovative products out there, as we have seen over the past 30 years.” However, she advises that the nutricosmetic beauty-from-within trend has only begun more recently and still has many possible prospects.

Kwik-Uribe points to another important synergy consideration—one in which, she says, “nutricosmetics help consumers harness a holistic approach to skincare, where they value both what they put on their skin as well as what they ingest. This complementary approach has been embraced increasingly by innovative supplement companies who are looking for ingredients that are not just 

 to improve skin health but that have actually been shown in clinical studies to provide significant benefits to hair, skin, and nail health.”

In other words, science matters. And, so does substantiation.

Zangara believes that “as consumers become more interested in understanding how nutrients work within their bodies, they will favor products supported by the greatest amount of scientific research and substantiation.”

Vendrell, too, says, “We believe that science is driving the beauty-from-within category forward as brands seek to differentiate themselves in an increasingly competitive marketplace.” He points to Mintel market research data from 2022 on the UK women’s facial skincare market which found that 50% of consumers seek proven ingredients when purchasing a beauty product, showing how crucial scientific claims and substantiation are to product development and positioning these days. Vendrell says that when Bioiberica was developing its branded ingredient Dermial, described as “the first hyaluronic acid matrix ingredient for skin and beauty,” having a science-backed product was important to the company.

Eisen says that both the industry and consumers are looking for substantiation to support new products in the beauty-from-within category, which, she adds, is driving awareness of the need to rely on science when formulating and packaging products.

Plus, Olufeso says, “In nutricosmetics, safety is a big thing. There are many ingredients and products out there with insufficient safety data. With the constant flow of new ingredients and products being launched into this market, it has become more difficult to understand which products are significantly [effective]. Here, clinical study data will help to distinguish and gain the trust of consumers.” Basically, she says, “it is important to provide these data.”

New research also opens doors to new audiences. As Simpson explains, “Nutricosmetics used to be solely marketed to a narrow demographic, whereas today the opportunity for ‘inclusive beauty’ provides an opportunity for growth for different ages, genders, lifestyles, and environments in which we live. If suppliers and manufacturers understand their clientele and target market for brands, they will naturally evolve with the market trends.”

Many companies track those trends and are happy to adapt.

Vendrell notes that the nutricosmetic consumer has changed. “Traditionally, older women represented the conventional consumer in the beauty and emerging nutricosmetic markets,” he says. “However, younger demographics and men are entering the playing field, too, significantly expanding the potential consumer base of these products.”

From Olufeso’s perspective, “Nutricosmetics are primarily taken by 30+ consumers. But we see some changes there.” For instance, she says, consumers in the 15-30 age group are especially now showing more interest in nutricosmetics, signaling new opportunities for industry. “This trend will require…actives and products [to be] more tailored to the needs of this age group,” she points out. “To reach them, it is also important to use the right media channels, such as TikTok or Instagram.”

That said, Zangara doesn’t advise counting out the original age-related demographic for the category, pointing to statistics from the World Health Organization that, he says, show that two billion people are expected to be older than 60 by 2050.

Verdure’s King says that “we have seen this category appeal to an aging audience that is aiming to stay healthy and proactive, and beauty is an area that these consumers are considerably honing in on.”

Another reason to address all age groups is that consumers of different ages have different skin health needs, Zangara adds. “For instance, most women over 40 like to focus on healthy aging and repairing sun damage, while those in their 30s may seek preventative measures,” he explains. As for those under 25, often they are more concerned about reducing blemishes and finding a balance between oily and dry skin, Zangara adds.

But Zangara suggests that no matter the age, the commonality “is the desire for scientific proof.” And, fortunately, he adds, “with more thoroughly researched ingredients being used in beauty-from-within products than ever before, the industry is well on the way to meeting this demand.”

Furthermore, when it comes to the environments in which we live, companies like Mibelle and Nutrition21 are clearly paying attention to the consumer desire for ingredients that have scientific support to demonstrate pollution protection for the skin.

And no one should forget to think about the environmentalists. Zangara advocates that “consumers are also increasingly favoring applications with an ecological and sustainable added value.”

There’s movement in delivery methods, too, in the nutricosmetic category, making sure everyone who wants to take these oral options has a preferred way to do so. For instance, King advises that “we have seen tremendous growth in various delivery methods over the past years, ranging from functional foods and beverages like beauty drinks, chews, and bars to traditional methods like capsules, softgels, and powders. Gummies are also becoming increasingly prominent within the beauty space. These delivery methods can be attributed to the rise in innovation. They open the possibility to add product line diversity, and bring a lot to market.”

Olufeso views the future for delivery methods in more food types of formats. “Today the market is mainly dominated by capsules and tablets,” she says, but food delivery methods, such as gummies, “have gained much popularity in the last two to three years.” She expects this trend toward food-like products in this space will “extend to other formats, adapted to today’s lifestyle” and consumer expectations of taste and convenience. Even formats like chewing gum, direct-consumable powder sticks, or powder beverages may gain market space, she says.

As for the ingredients themselves, Simpson says that “brands can now choose their ingredients based on the category or the demographic they’re targeting.” Whether it’s clinical nutraceutical ingredients, the biotics (pre-, pro-, or postbiotics), or plant medicines, there are more options available today than ever before.

She says that ingredients and science are advancing within nutricosmetics, and she’s particularly intrigued by growing research on the microbiome, longevity/mitochondrial aging, and lifestyle influences (e.g., mood, beauty/stress) on our aesthetic wellness. “It will be interesting to see how these categories emerge in the future,” she says.

What’s more, in thinking about what’s needed for companies to make their ingredients household names, she sees not just the ingredient but the full package as important. In her role as a formulator, Simpson says that it’s not just the specific ingredient but “rather the quality of ingredients, dosage, and product form used that make a difference in how well a formula will work from the inside out.”

There’s also a bit of a conundrum for nutricosmetics, one that doesn’t come as a surprise. The conundrum is this: do consumers understand that the effects of beauty-from-within products may take time to surface and require consistent product use to achieve? Vendrell says that “although a growing number of consumers are aware of the longer-term benefits associated with dietary supplementation, some are still highly focused on quick fixes. Education on nutricosmetic ingredients and their role is key to overcoming this, to ensure the category continues to expand.”

Indeed, says Simpson, in this market, consumers seem to have an easier time accepting ingredients with more visible results. “From a market level, fortifying ingredients such as collagen peptides, MSM, or biotin have been popular in North America, I believe, mainly due to the noticeable changes in hair and nails that are seen more quickly over taking an antioxidant, for example. Although all are effective in nurturing our aesthetic wellness, it is the tangible effect that tends to win over the consumer.”

Another challenge? “Consumers also might not realize that fortifying, protecting, or rebalancing the health and appearance of skin, hair, or nails really depends on the biochemical individuality, lifestyle, age, and health of an individual, as these factors determine the most suitable ingredients or formulations to use,” she adds.

“Consumer awareness, more generally, has been a barrier to growth,” agrees Vendrell. Collagen, hyaluronic acid, vitamins C and E, and probiotics are nutraceutical ingredients recognizable to consumers, he observes, “but there is still some work to do to shift existing mindsets so that nutricosmetics become part of the norm for beauty regimens.”

There are other challenges, too, that could stunt market growth, issues that are not unique to this category.

For starters, Zangara points to adulteration, which he says “has become a more important concern than ever, with counterfeit materials entering the supply chain. For example, adulteration remains a key hindrance to pomegranate reaching its full market potential, in spite of the mounting evidence supporting pomegranate’s health benefits. The prevalence of adulterated pomegranate extracts, which do not contain the natural profile of polyphenols found in pomegranate, is a real concern for the industry.”

Therefore, he suggests that “proper testing, strict quality protocols, and a vertically integrated supply chain are of vital importance. Each step—starting with the raw materials—should be traceable, accountable, and transparent.”

Along those lines, Olufeso shares that truthful declaration of actives is another concern. One example she provides is products labeled as “vegan collagen,” which she says doesn’t exist. She insists that “there is no natural source of collagen, as it only can be found in animals. Some products contain amino acids, the building blocks for the collagen structure, but they cannot be named as vegan collagen.”

Vendrell is also wary that regulatory challenges could hinder future category growth. He says that “currently, beauty claims do not fall under the regulatory frameworks for food supplements, meaning that there are numerous products on shelves without science-backed benefit claims. This generates false expectations and ineffective solutions, potentially damaging consumer perception of the category.”

King agrees, as he believes that substantiation is crucial to support the claims made on products, not only from an efficacy perspective but from a transparency perspective, to educate consumers on the claims associated with the products they are buying.

Zangara, too, would like to see more accountability to protect people who want to buy products that deliver what those products promise. People demand more transparency with regards to how and where the products are produced. He adds that “increasing transparency to meet evolving ethical, environmental, and clean-label demands should be key to companies.”

Still, stakeholders are optimistic. Vendrell sums it up: “More and more, individuals acknowledge the power of inner health on outer appearance, and the focus is fast moving away from short-term fixes to long-term solutions. Consumers are increasingly aware that all aspects of health are intrinsically connected.”

In other words, the future of the nutricosmetics market looks very attractive indeed.

A 2022 study evaluated the effect of Mibelle Biochemistry’s (Buchs, Switzerland) blue fenugreek kale extract, FenuKale Nu, on skin aging. The randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted in a highly polluted area and studied 59 participants over 56 days. The major parameter studied was skin barrier dysfunction through the assessment of transepidermal water loss. Other study parameters included participant self-assessment of skin conditions such as skin sagging, elasticity, and wrinkle severity.

The study found that in the intervention group, by the end of the treatment period, the transepidermal water loss level reduced significantly and, at the same time, skin moisture content levels increased. Further, FenuKale Nu significantly reduced protein carbonylation in human dermal fibroblasts stressed with urban pollution. There were no significant changes observed in some of the other study responses, including to questions about wrinkle severity, skin sagging, or elasticity; however, when asked to rate their skin status, such as hydration, luminescence, and texture, the FenuKale Nu participants’ self-assessment score reflected a high satisfactory score level.

FenuKale Nu is ideal for beauty-from-within formulas in the detox, healthy aging, and anti-pollution space, and can be used in a range of applications such as tablets, capsules, beverages, and more, according to the company’s website.

A randomized, double-blind, 12-week study evaluated the impact of Nutrition21’s (Harrison, NY) branded ingredient Lustriva on hair and skin health. The study included 90 healthy female subjects who self-reported thinning hair. The participants were randomized to one of three groups: 1) high-dose Lustriva, 2) low-dose Lustriva, or 3) placebo.

Specifically, the results showed a significant increase in hair thickness, measured by change in % vellus hair and % terminal hair and in the ratio of % vellus to terminal hair, in the high-dose Lustriva group compared to the placebo group at week 3. These effects were maintained throughout the study. Although there were no changes in skin elasticity between the groups, the high-dose group had a significant decrease in facial wrinkles at 12 weeks, and after 12 weeks compared to baseline, the high-dose group had significantly improved facial-wrinkle maximum depth, Indentation Index and Score, facial fine lines Indentation Index and Score, and more.

The study participants were ages 21 to 65. The high-dose group was instructed to take one capsule daily of Lustriva, with the active ingredients comprising 146.5 mg of inositol-stabilized arginine silicate, and with 11.7 mg of magnesium biotinate providing 10 mg of silicon and 10 mg of biotin. The low-dose group’s daily capsule consisted of the same amount of inositol-stabilized arginine silicate but only 3.5 mg of magnesium biotinate providing 10 mg of silicon and 3 mg of biotin.

The study authors concluded that high-dose Lustriva supplementation significantly increased hair thickness and reduced facial wrinkle depth compared to placebo and performed better than the low dose in most parameters. They recommended conducting future studies.

A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study by researchers from Complife Italia Srl and Monteloeder SL (Madrid, Spain) was published earlier this year to assess the antiaging skin effects and safety of Monteloeder’s branded ingredient Eternalyoung.

The study results showed that the proprietary blend of four botanical ingredients—pomegranate 

—may positively affect the appearance, barrier function, and skin density of aged skin after 12 weeks of treatment.

The researchers studied a population of 60 Caucasian women, aged 35-69, all of whom exhibited signs of both sun-induced and chronological skin aging—specifically, mild to moderate wrinkles and dark spots. Participants each received a daily dose of a hard gelatin capsule containing either 225 mg of the Eternalyoung complex or a placebo for the length of the study.

According to the study authors, in the Eternalyoung subjects, statistically significant improvements compared to the placebo group were observed as early as 4 weeks into the study regarding wrinkle depth, elasticity, firmness, skin thickness, skin moisturization, transepidermal water loss, and dark spots pigmentation. In addition, the subjects who consumed the botanical blend reported better scores on self-assessment questionnaires. For example, those in the botanical blend group self-reported that their skin felt more “radiant, healthy, and youthful.” Further, the botanical blend visibly and structurally improved the skin and reduced signs of aging, without side effects, the researchers reported.

A 2022-published prospective, double-blind, placebo-controlled study in a population of males and females demonstrated improvements in several biophysical properties, wrinkles, and shifts in the skin microbiome after supplementation with Pomella, Verdure Sciences’ (Noblesville, IN) proprietary 

The four-week pilot study included healthy females and males aged 25-55. At the study’s completion, there were 8 subjects in the intervention group (6 female, 2 male) and 10 in the control group (9 female, 1 male). The intervention group received an oral supplement of 250 mg of Pomella pomegranate fruit extract, standardized to 75 mg of punicalagin, once daily over the duration of the study, while the control group received a placebo.

Among the results, the Pomella group showed significant reduction in wrinkle severity (6.2% compared to placebo) and a decreasing trend in forehead sebum excretion rate.

Further, the facial skin microbiome was examined for the 

after Pomella supplementation. The participants in the Pomella group who had a higher relative abundance of 

 in their gut had a decrease in their facial transepidermal water loss and wrinkle severity.

The study authors also performed a sub-analysis among participants in the Pomella group for the gut microbiome expression of 

The corresponding study author advised that “our results suggest that the presence of 

 may predict a better response to Pomella supplementation and supports the notion of a gut-skin axis when considering oral supplementation.”

Verdure Sciences funded the research but had no role in the study itself, from design, data analysis, through to publishing decisions. “Further studies with an expanded cohort are warranted,” said the authors. Verdure’s digital marketing specialist, Antonio King, says that in addition to this publication, the company is “awaiting a second publication to accompany the mounting evidence for Pomella pomegranate extract.”

 study evaluated the effects of the pomegranate natural extract Pomanox from Euromed S.A. (Mollet del Vallès, Spain). The branded pomegranate fruit extract was studied for skin health–related parameters in normal- and UV-induced photoaging conditions in human fibroblast Hs68 cells. The inhibitory effects of Pomanox on tyrosinase activity were also assessed. The study authors concluded, “The modulation of skin health–related parameters exhibited by Pomanox open a wide range of potential applications of this product.”

More specifically, under normal conditions, Pomanox significantly increased collagen and hyaluronic acid metabolism. In UV-exposed cells, both preventive and regenerative treatments with Pomanox positively modulated hyaluronic acid metabolism and decreased reactive oxygen species levels. The researchers noted, however, that only the preventive treatment modulated collagen metabolism. Pomanox also showed a marked inhibitory capacity of tyrosinase activity, thus potentially reducing hyperpigmentation by decreasing melanin synthesis.

In response to the published results, Euromed said that “Pomanox may reduce unaesthetic signs of skin aging such as hyperpigmentation, skin dryness, and loss of elasticity by reducing melanogenesis and oxidative stress while modulating collagen and hyaluronic acid metabolism.” The company said that the results from this proof-of-concept 

 test in human fibroblast cells suggest that Pomanox “is a promising ingredient for nutricosmetic and beauty-from-within applications.” It said it’s now preparing clinical studies to further this research.

 published earlier this year evaluated Bioiberica’s (Barcelona, Spain) branded hyaluronic acid matrix ingredient, Dermial, at an 

 level and found antiaging, regenerative, and antioxidant properties in skin cells, according to a company press release. This review further validates the potential of Dermial for use in nutricosmetics, Bioiberica said. Dermial is a hyaluronic acid matrix ingredient with a unique combination of highly concentrated hyaluronic acid (67%) and other glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) such as dermatan sulfate and collagen.

The study authors, including researchers from Bioiberica, stated that overall, the results of this study suggest that Dermial has a variety of potential benefits for the skin, including stimulating cell migration and proliferation; inducing the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and GAGs; and protecting against reactive oxygen species (ROS)-induced DNA damage and ROS production. The researchers added that “these properties may make the HA matrix a useful ingredient in skincare products aimed at improving the appearance of aged skin.”

According to Daniel Martinez Puig, head of human health, research, and development at Bioiberica, in a press release, “Following these promising outcomes, our next steps will be to carry out a clinical trial to confirm the efficacy of Dermial in humans.”

There’s still a lot of white space in the beauty-from-within market. Experts point out the future opportunities. 

Nutricosmetic experts discuss trends driving the beauty-from-within market

Energy-support ingredients are undergoing a research revolution as more consumers look for a boost without the caffeine crash. In both the sports market and the general consumer market, interest in natural energy ingredients is growing, driven by consumers’ demanding and stressful lifestyles. Shoppers are increasingly looking for ways to power through the day, and they’re no longer relying solely on coffee for that purpose.

As the energy market grows, there will be further opportunities for research-backed nutritional ingredients. Here are some of the ways these ingredients are demonstrating efficacy in the energy market.

Botanicals Reduce Fatigue and Promote Sleep

A variety of botanical ingredients are demonstrating efficacy for energy support—and they’re doing so in surprising ways. Rather than simply masking fatigue or creating a stimulant effect, emerging energy-support botanicals are also enabling deeper sleep—which, in turn, provides a more natural and sustainable energy boost.

One January 2023 clinical trial examined the effects of Enovate Biolife’s (Wilmington, DE) branded Oxyjun ingredient, a 

 extract, on physical fatigue and cardiac output in 72 male and female subjects aged 30 to 70 years old. The subjects were randomly assigned to receive either 400 mg of Oxyjun per day, or a placebo, for 56 days. After 56 days, the Oxyjun group saw a 6% increase in cardiac output as well as a 22% reduction in perceived fatigue.

 The study results were shared by Innophos (Cranbury, NJ), the exclusive licensed distributor of Oxyjun in North America.

is also demonstrating energy-boosting effects in trials. One recent study examined the effects of OmniActive Health Technologies’ (Bridgewater, NJ) branded 

supplement, called enXtra, on mental alertness and fatigue in 62 subjects.

 In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled crossover trial, the subjects were randomly assigned to receive either a single dose of 300 mg of enXtra, or a placebo, before engaging in tests of mental alertness, fatigue, attention, and focus. The study found that enXtra administration resulted in a rapid improvement in mental alertness that was sustained for a five-hour period. Attention and focus benefits were measured as early as 30 minutes post-administration.

This study also found that enXtra supplementation improved correct response rate, resulted in fewer errors, improved reaction time, and reduced feelings of fatigue, the company says. Deshanie Rai, PhD, FACN, vice president of global science and regulatory for OmniActive, says that the company’s collective clinical data show that enXtra helps to support attention, focus, and alertness, with a same-day effect.

While most energy ingredients focus on supporting physical stamina and mental alertness, one interesting ingredient is supporting energy by helping consumers get a better night’s sleep. DailyZz, a branded botanical ingredient by Kemin (Des Moines, IA), is a polyphenol blend designed to improve daytime functioning by promoting better-quality sleep.

One 2021 randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial examined the effects of DailyZz on sleep quality, insomnia, and daytime functioning in 89 subjects with subclinical sleep disturbances. The subjects were randomly assigned to receive either 485 mg of DailyZz, or a placebo, 30 minutes before bed for 30 days. Subjects kept sleep diaries to track total sleep time, sleep-onset latency, and morning drowsiness. The subjects also completed the Perceived Stress Scale, the Profile of Mood States rating scale, the Insomnia Severity Index, the Center for Epidemiological Studies Depression Scale, the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index, and a variety of cognitive and attention tests on days 0, 7, and 30. The study found that DailyZz increased sleep quality, improved reaction time, reduced insomnia symptoms, and promoted better neurocognitive functioning.

Chris Sadewasser, global product manager at Kemin Human Nutrition and Health, says that when it comes to boosting energy, consumers should address why they feel tired or have little energy first. “One way to increase energy is to ensure you’re getting a good night’s sleep,” Sadewasser says. “A good night’s sleep is more than just getting to sleep and staying asleep but also includes getting good-quality sleep. Kemin’s DailyZz has been shown to promote sleep quality and improve next-day daytime functioning.”

Emerging data is showing that ribose is a particularly potent energy-support ingredient. One 2022 randomized, triple-blind, placebo-controlled, crossover pilot trial examined the effects of Bioenergy Life Science’s (Andover, MN) patented RiaGev, a ribose and nicotinamide blend, on NAD, ATP, and glutathione production as well as sleep, energy, and insulin sensitivity in 18 healthy men and women between the ages of 35 and 65.

Twice per day for eight days, all subjects received either 1) a placebo, or 2) a 1280-mg dose of D-ribose, plus 240 mg of nicotinamide and 480 mg of palm oil, before crossing over to the opposite condition after a seven-day washout period. Subjects were assessed for blood NAD+ concentration, blood glucose, insulin concentration, glutathione, salivary cortisol, and ATP at baseline and on days 3, 5, and 8. Subjects also completed the Checklist Individual Strength questionnaire, a measure of physical fatigue and mental concentration, on days 1, 3, 5, and 8.

After five days, the subjects in the RiaGev group experienced a 10% increase in NAD+, while the control group’s NAD+ levels did not change. The RiaGev group also experienced a dramatic increase in NADP+ levels. After seven days, the RiaGev group exhibited improved insulin sensitivity and increased glutathione. RiaGev also consistently increased ATP and reduced cortisol across all time periods. The study authors concluded that RiaGev increases mental concentration and reduces fatigue.

Adaptogens Boost Physical and Mental Energy

In addition to their effects on various other dimensions of health, adaptogens are now demonstrating efficacy as energy-boosting supplements. One randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial examined the effects of Gencor’s (Irvine, CA) branded 

 extract, ActivAMP, on motor system performance and cognitive energy in 100 Korean adults.

Subjects were randomly assigned to receive 450 mg of ActivAMP, or a placebo, once per day for 12 weeks. The subjects were assessed at baseline and on study conclusion for cardiorespiratory response, blood pressure, metabolic equivalent of task, and maximal heart rate. The subjects also took a Visual Analog Scale to assess fatigue.

The trial found that the ActivAMP group exhibited significantly higher endothelial nitric oxide synthase (eNOS) levels during recovery relative to the placebo group. The placebo group also scored significantly higher on the multidimensional fatigue scale after treatment than at baseline, while the ActivAMP group did not. The study authors concluded that ActivAMP administration improves physical and mental performance during exercise.

The energy market is a ripe field of innovation with a variety of botanical, adaptogenic, and carbohydrate-based ingredients demonstrating clinical efficacy in improving both physical and mental energy levels. As this market expands and more consumers look for energy-boosting solutions, expect more opportunities for clinically proven caffeine alternatives.

Srivastava, S.; Girandola, R.N.; Abedon, B. Effect of E-OJ-01 on Left Ventricular Ejection Fraction and Myocardial Oxygen Consumption: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study. 

Eriah M.M.; Kundapur, M.; Joshua, L.; Thomas, J.V. Acute Effects of Alpinia galanga Extract on Mental Alertness, Accuracy and Fatigue in Human Subjects: A Randomized, DoubleBlind, Placebo-Controlled, Cross-Over Study. 

Tubbs, A.S.; Kennedy, K.E.R.; Alfonso-Miller, P.; Willis, C.C.A.; Grandner, M.A. A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial of a Polyphenol Botanical Blend on Sleep and Daytime Functioning. 

Xue, Y.; Shamp, T.; Gowda, G.A.N.; Crabtree, M.; Bagchi, D.; Raftery, D. A Combination of Nicotinamide and D-Ribose (RiaGev) Is Safe and Effective to Increase NAD+ Metabolome in Healthy Middle-Aged Adults: A Randomized, Triple-Blind, Placebo-Controlled, Cross-Over Pilot Clinical Trial. 

Ahn, Y.; Lee, H.S.; Lee, S.H.; et al. Effects of Gypenoside L-Containing 

Extract on Fatigue and Physical Performance: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled, Randomized Trial. 

Xing, D.; Yoo, C.; Gonzalez, D.; et al. “Dose-Response of Paraxanthine on Cognitive Function: A Double Blind, Placebo Controlled, Crossover Trial. 

New research on how natural ingredients provide an energy boost.

Natural energy-support ingredients: What do the latest studies say?

Seems you can’t heave a bottle of melatonin gummies out the bedroom window these days without whacking a self-certified sleep guru on the head. But no sleep-science credentials are needed to grasp this fundamental fact: Mess with your proverbial forty winks and you won’t feel too happy about it in the morning.

After all, even a newborn knows that sleep and mood “are rather intimately intertwined,” as Rajat Shah, director, Nutriventia Ltd. (Mumbai, India), puts it. “And if ever there were a perfect example of a vicious cycle, the relationship between sleep and mood is it: When sleep is poor, mood is affected, and when mood is poor, sleep is affected.”

Unfortunately, modern times can do a number on both. As a result, modern humans suffer from disordered sleep and mood—if not outright mood and sleep disorders—more than they’d like.

The good news is that supplement brands are wise to this relationship, and they’ve put their scientists to work both teasing out sleep and mood’s intricacies and building formulations that improve the prospects for both.

If contemporary consumers seem obsessed with sleep, they can be forgiven: We tend to obsess about what we lack. And as Shah points out, “Over the past several years, worry has descended on the population, causing many a sleepless night.”

Given that we spend roughly one third of our lives either in sleep or pursuing it

 at? Yet only 32% of respondents to a 2022 Gallup survey

 claimed to get “excellent” or “very good” sleep, with almost as many, 33%, describing their sleep as “fair” or “poor.”

And as for what’s sullying our sleep hygiene, Josh Beaty, marketing director, NuLiv Science (Brea, CA), lays the blame on “modern lifestyles, 24/7 culture, constant connectivity, and increased stress—especially within the past few years.” His conclusion? “With more consumers realizing how sleep affects health, cognitive function, and emotional well-being, it’s no wonder it’s become such a hot topic.”

Indeed, Beaty says, “Research dating back to 2010

 shows that inadequate sleep can lead to chronic health issues like obesity, diabetes, and cardiovascular disease.”

Michael Breus, PhD, founder of TheSleepDoctor.com, even goes so far as to call sleep “a necessary component of good health”—which, when you explore the evidence, isn’t that far off a call at all.

For example, he explains, “Research reveals that shift workers whose circadian rhythms become disturbed by working at night and sleeping during the day may be more likely to develop conditions such as diabetes and breast cancer.”

Even short of that, poor sleep puts a damper on everyday life. “The increased daytime sleepiness that sleep deprivation causes may make it difficult to socialize and focus on tasks,” Breus points out, “and drowsiness may put a drowsy driver and anyone on the road with them at higher risk.”

So what is it about sleep that makes shortchanging it so inadvisable?

“There’s no single explanation clarifying why sleep impacts us so immensely,” Breus concedes, “but sleep researchers have developed multiple theories explaining its importance, which I write about extensively on my website.”

For example, while human metabolism slows significantly during sleep, sleep is also “connected to the metabolic processes that let the body transform food into energy,” Breus notes. Thus, the energy-conservation theory suggests that we use time asleep “to save energy for more active periods,” he says.

According to the synaptic homeostasis hypothesis, adds Qi Jia, PhD, president and CEO, Unigen Inc. (Tacoma, WA), “Sleep is the price the brain pays for plasticity

.” In other words, while we’re awake and learning, our brains forge and strengthen neuronal connections—an energetically taxing process. “When we sleep,” he explains, “that neuronal activity normalizes strength and restores cellular homeostasis. Thus these phenomena help the brain acquire, consolidate, and integrate memory.”

Meanwhile, the restorative theory holds that sleep gives the body time to repair. “Studies indicate that sleep is linked to cells and hormones involved in growth, cell repair, and tissue regeneration,” Breus says, including growth hormone, for example, much of which we release during sleep.

The glymphatic system is also more active during sleep, Beaty adds, shuttling metabolic waste out of the brain to maintain cognitive function and protect against neurodegeneration. Breus notes a study that found sleep quality crucial to healing in subjects who had undergone rotator-cuff surgery, “and we know that healthy sleep is also associated with better immune health,” he says.

But “healthy” vis-a-vis sleep doesn’t just mean “more.” As Denis Alimonti, director of U.S. nutrition, Maypro Group (Purchase, NY), says, “It’s not only about the hours logged; it’s about the quality of those hours—and studies suggest that people today aren’t getting enough sleep, 

 the quality of sleep they get may not be optimal.”

That suboptimal quality emerges from a compromise in what experts call “sleep architecture,” or the structural organization of normal sleep

. And that structural organization rests on two main stages: non-rapid eye movement sleep, or NREM, and rapid eye movement, or REM, sleep.

NREM sleep comprises three further stages that go from light to deep, Beaty explains, “and it’s during the deeper stages—particularly slow-wave sleep—that our brains consolidate memories and engage in synaptic pruning: refining neural connections and making our brains more efficient.”

REM sleep, for its part, constitutes dreamtime, when the brain processes and integrates emotional experiences to “help us better handle stress and emotional challenges,” Beaty says. The unique neural activation patterns that characterize this sleep stage also seem linked to creativity and problem solving—“abilities we all need to thrive,” he says.

It’s only when we cycle through all these stages for sufficient time and with minimal interruptions that we truly press the “sleep reset button,” as Beaty calls it, that lets us “recover physically, consolidate memories, regulate emotions, and solve problems more effectively.” And we know we’ve pulled 

off when we awaken feeling refreshed and ready to wrap our brains around the day.

“On the other hand,” Beaty continues, “a bad night’s sleep might result in fatigue, irritability, and diminished cognitive performance.”

 Yet while this phenomenon is self-evident to all, scientists are knee-deep in the details of how and why it happens, and as Shah says, “Just as there’s much talk about the gut-brain axis, we believe there’s also a sleep-stress-mood axis.”

That makes sense to Beaty. As he reminds us, “When we’re in that REM stage of sleep, our brains are hard at work processing emotional experiences, and this helps us deal with negative emotions more effectively.” In fact, a 2001 study

 found that REM sleep can alter the emotional intensity of memories, “which, in turn, helps us maintain emotional resilience,” he notes.

By contrast, sleep deprivation “can make us more emotionally reactive and impair our ability to regulate emotions,” he goes on. “One 2011

 study showed how sleep-deprived individuals had increased amygdala activity when they encountered negative stimuli. This basically means they had a heightened emotional response, so getting enough sleep is crucial if we want to keep our emotional balance.”

Beyond its effects on emotional regulation, poor sleep quality and quantity are “big risk factors” for developing mental-health problems, Breus adds. Because of the close relationship between sleep and the neurotransmitters serotonin and dopamine, changes in sleep patterns can trigger symptoms of conditions like depression, anxiety, bipolar disorder, and schizophrenia, he notes.

Moreover, anxiety and sleep interact in what Breus describes as a “negative-feedback loop—so sleep issues lead to increased anxiety, and anxiety makes sleeping worse.” Troubled sleep also often accompanies—and can cause—depressive episodes; as Breus explains, “Similar to anxiety, most people with depression have trouble falling asleep and wake up often during the night.” Yet he also notices that many such patients sleep longer than usual.

“Interestingly” Beaty notes, “sleep can even affect positive emotions: Sleep deprivation can actually reduce our ability to experience pleasure or positive feelings.” And for that reason and more, he continues, “We’re seeing a steady increase in demand for supplements that address sleep and mood.”

While he lauds melatonin, magnesium, and L-theanine as “solid choices” for tackling both, he lauds the supplement industry’s efforts to develop even better alternatives.

For example, NuLiv Science developed Zylaria—“a unique composition of highly purified fractions extracted from 

 (root) extract,” Beaty explains—to support both sleep and mood via action on GABA, or gamma-aminobutyric acid.

A major sleep regulator, GABA “puts the brakes on nerve activity, helping us feel more relaxed,” Beaty says. “It’s kind of like our brain’s built-in tranquilizer.” Zylaria appears to elevate GABA content in PC-12 neurons, which Beaty says “show neuronal function and differentiation in the context of various neurological processes, including sleep.” They do this by increasing GABA content itself, as well as by upregulating the activity of GAD, which controls GABA synthesis, and decreasing the activity of GABA transaminase, which degrades GABA.

Jia submits Unigen’s Maizinol as another example of a supplement that improves both sleep and mood. Extracted from immature corn 

 leaves, the ingredient’s active, 6-MBOA, shares structural similarity with melatonin, allowing it to bind the same MT1 and MT2 receptors that trigger the latter’s physiological effects.

The compound appears to have a particular affinity for the MT2 receptor, Jia notes, which “is known to promote non-REM sleep when activated.” And, in fact, a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study

 found that the supplement produced a statistically significant, roughly 30-minute increase in restorative sleep relative to the placebo, with subjects in the supplement group experiencing a 36% reduction in levels of salivary cortisol—the “stress hormone”—and a 49% improvement in sleep quality as measured by the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index (PSQI).

 in subjects with mild depression and anxiety found that supplementation with the extract produced statistically significant improvements in both as soon as four weeks into the eight-week protocol, with the supplement performing comparably to S-adenosyl-L-methionine, or SAMe, a supplement popularly marketed to address low mood.

Maypro markets its proprietary asparagus extract, ETAS, to support sleep and stress, as well. The extract works, Alimonti explains, by increasing production of the heat-shock protein 70 (HSP70), an endogenous protein produced in response to stress. “HSP helps ensure correct protein folding and repairs damaged cells,” he says, “tipping the balance from excitatory cytokines to inhibitory ones. It also serves as an antioxidant.”

 involving healthy male subjects found that those in the supplementation group exhibited suppression of cortisol level increase and decreased expression of chromogranin A, a marker of psychological stress—both of which Alimonti says “led to better sleep.”

And to answer demand for a more effective class of melatonin supplements, the company offers MicroActive melatonin. “Lifestyle factors” like excessive light and shift work can impair most melatonin supplements’ absorption, Alimonti says; what’s more, what melatonin the body does absorb can release slowly and unpredictably, leaving users feeling groggy in the morning.

“MicroActive melatonin was designed to improve melatonin absorption and provide prolonged release throughout the night,” he claims. “Using a micronized, sustained-release technology that ensures gradual release over seven hours, it supports better sleep throughout the night and is suitable for gummies.”

Also offering sustained release is Nutriventia’s Prolanza, an ashwagandha

supplement extracted to a high concentration of 10 USP withanolides (4% to 5%) and 10 other active withanolides using proprietary technology. The company then encapsulates those actives in a matrix that prolongs release more than eight hours, leading to what Shah says is a “clinically substantiated presence in plasma after 24 hours.”

Results of a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial

 on 100 healthy adults showed that those supplementing with 300 mg of the supplement for 90 days exhibited statistically significant and clinically relevant reductions in perceived stress and serum cortisol levels compared to placebo. “Scores on the PSQI also indicate that the ingredient significantly improved sleep quality by 3.5 times, while responses to the Oxford Happiness Questionnaire pointed to a nearly twofold improvement in mental well-being,” Shah adds. “Subjects also experienced 3.6-fold better memory recall using CANTAB”—the Cambridge Neuropsychological Test Automated Battery—“and 1.5-fold better visual accuracy also using CANTAB compared to the placebo group.”

Finally, notes Chris Sadewasser, global product manager, Kemin Human Nutrition and Health (Des Moines, IA), “One great option to support sleep health is DailyZz,” a proprietary blend of spearmint and green tea extracts with clinical evidence for its support of sleep quality and next-day functioning.

 “DailyZz works by providing neuro-supportive polyphenols that can help protect neuronal cells, elevate neurotransmitter levels, and decrease oxidative stress to support healthy sleep and a healthy brain,” he says.

Sounds like a winning combination. After all, Beaty notes that Global Info Research valued the sleep-supplement market at $7.6 billion in 2022 and predicts a rise to $14.6 billion by 2029, representing compound annual growth of 9.8%.

 Meanwhile, mood-support supplements look set to compound their annual growth at a rate of 12.5% from 2023 to 2030.

And though analysts often view the two markets separately, “their close relationship means that many consumers look for products that address both,” Beaty wagers. “So I think we’ll see more convergence between the two markets in the next few years as research demonstrates the correlations further.”

And that research is everything. “The sector will need to remain innovative and adaptable,” Beaty stresses. “This includes investing in research and development and exploring new product formats. If we do this, the market has the potential not only to continue its impressive growth but to truly revolutionize how we approach sleep and mood health for consumers.”

Aminoff, M.J.; Bolsler, F.; Swaab, D.F. We Spend About One-Third of Our Life Either Sleeping or Attempting to Do So. 

Gallup. Casper-Gallup State of Sleep in America 2022 Report. 

https://www.gallup.com/analytics/390536/sleep-in-america-2022.aspx

Cappuccio, F.P.; D’Elia, L.; Strazzullo, P.; Miller, M.A. Sleep Duration and All-Cause Mortality: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Prospective Studies. 

Tononi, G.; Cirelli, C. Sleep and the Price of Plasticity: From Synaptic and Cellular Homeostasis to Memory Consolidation and Integration. 

National Library of Medicine, National Institutes of Health. Sleep Disorders and Sleep Deprivation: An Unmet Public Health Problem. 

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK19956/

And which emerging ingredients are coming down the pipeline for sleep supplements?

Nutritional Outlook Vol. 26 No. 5

Alternative sweetener options grow as consumers demand less sugar

Nutricosmetic experts discuss trends driving the beauty-from-within market

Natural energy-support ingredients: What do the latest studies say?

Can supplements make consumers literally feel better about sleep?

Healthy conversation: Where FDA’s “healthy” update stands—and what industry’s doing about it

Why pet supplement ingredients should be studied in pets

FTC’s deadline for Green Guides public comments is approaching. AHPA’s May Botanical Congress event flagged key points.