Botanical Ingredient Elissara Shows Multi-Pathway Activity in Hair Follicle Study

A study published in the August 2026 issue of Biomolecules investigated whether Elissara, a polyphenol-enriched botanical ingredient from Monteloeder SL (a SuanNutra subsidiary), affects biological pathways relevant to hair follicle function.¹ As explained in a news release from the company, the ingredient—a standardized blend of lemon verbena (Lippia citriodora), olive leaf (Olea europaea), Japanese pagoda tree (Styphnolobium japonicum), and rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)—had previously shown scalp-level benefits in a randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 66 women, including improved moisturization and reduced sebum and redness after 12 weeks of oral supplementation.^1,2 The new work sought to determine whether those effects extend to follicular biology.

“Consumers are increasingly concerned about their hair’s appearance and are seeking natural, science-backed solutions that support hair vitality,” stated Mariana Ortega, science marketing manager for SuanNutra. “Supplement brands are responding to the growing demand for hair health solutions. The category is evolving from multivitamins targeting hair, skin, and nails toward more advanced, targeted products. We empower supplement brands with a complete beauty-from-within toolkit, enabling them to develop next-generation solutions that complement consumers’ healthy lifestyles and go beyond topical care.”

How Was the Study Designed?

The study used three methods: molecular docking of six Elissara bioactives against five hair-related protein targets; treatment of human follicle dermal papilla cells to assess proliferation and SRD5A2 levels; and human scalp explants treated with Elissara, with a subset exposed to PM2.5/UVA stress, then analyzed for follicular biomarkers.

What Did the Results Show?

Computer modeling suggested Elissara's compounds are predicted to interact with SRD5A2, an enzyme linked to hair follicle shrinkage, though less strongly than the drugs finasteride and dutasteride. In lab-grown scalp cells, Elissara more than doubled cell growth compared to control, and reduced SRD5A2 levels. In donor scalp tissue, Elissara boosted markers of healthy follicles and helped offset damage from simulated pollution and UV exposure, preserving cell growth, key growth signals, survival markers, and structural proteins while reducing oxidative damage.

What Are the Study's Limitations?

The authors note several constraints. Docking results are exploratory and hypothesis-generating, not evidence of biological activity. SRD5A1 modeling relied on an AlphaFold-predicted structure rather than a crystal structure, and no functional assay confirmed SRD5A1 modulation. The HFDPC study measured SRD5A2 protein levels only, not enzymatic activity or DHT production. Optimal dose-response relationships still need to be established as well. The ex vivo work used tissue from a single donor and a single concentration, limiting generalizability across age, sex, or hair-loss phenotype. The authors conclude that clinical studies are needed to confirm hair-growth outcomes with this oral supplementation.

What Does This Mean for the Category?

The company's September 1, 2026, press release characterizes the findings as extending Elissara's established scalp benefits toward "follicular resilience," while acknowledging that mechanistic findings require clinical confirmation. Monteloeder plans to present the results at Vitafoods Asia (Bangkok, September 2–4) and SupplySide Global.

“Rather than relying on a single pathway, Elissara combines four standardized, polyphenol-rich botanicals selected to provide complementary biological activity,” explained Daniel González-Hedström, PhD, R&D director for SuanNutra. “We are gradually unearthing Elissara’s potential benefits on hair resilience. The findings of this preclinical trial provide new insights into its pathways of action and help us understand how the composition may support healthy follicular function. The next step is to investigate whether these mechanistic findings translate into measurable hair benefits in a clinical setting.”

References

1. García A, Cavagnino A, Navarro P, et al. Hair growth-supporting and follicle-protective potential of a botanical-based supplement ingredient: in vitro, ex vivo, and molecular docking studies. Biomolecules. 2026;16(8):1207. doi: 10.3390/biom16081207
2. Monteloeder SL. Beyond scalp: new study suggests role for Elissara in hair growth. September 1, 2026. Accessed September 1, 2026.