From the Outside In: Natural Ingredients for Topical Beauty
Ingredients derived from nature, such as eggshell membrane, probiotics, collagen, and botanicals, are trending in the topical-beauty-products space. Biova’s (Johnston, IA) BiovaDerm ingredient, for instance, is derived from water-soluble egg membrane and contains collagen, elastin, desmosine, isodesmosine, and glycosaminoglycans. This combination reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, the company says, and “recent in vitro studies [of the product] have documented the expression of critical skincare nutrients,” according to Biova’s president, Matt Stegenga. Of the ingredient’s studies now completed and being prepared for publication, he says “one piece of data we can share is that one study confirmed our previous open-label findings, which support the reduction of the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles within weeks [when the BiovaDerm product is topically applied]. While still emerging, this ingredient shows tremendous promise of becoming the next skincare powerhouse.”
Probiotics company Ganeden Biotech (Cleveland) recently announced the inclusion of its Bonicel ingredient in GundryMD’s new topical product, Correct + Calm Redness Relief Cream, which also includes peptides, tiger grass stem cells, and myrrh. Bonicel, introduced by Ganeden in 2012, is the trademarked name of the supernatant produced during the fermentation of the firm’s flagship GanedenBC30 (Bacillus coagulans GBI-30, 6086) shelf-stable probiotic ingredient.
Bonicel itself is not a probiotic, but a probiotic derivative. Mike Bush, senior vice president, Ganeden, calls Bonicel “the first science-backed probiotic-derived skincare ingredient shown to significantly improve the appearance of seven common signs of aging and is optimized to contain the perfect combination of naturally derived metabolites.” Those seven signs of aging are fine lines and wrinkles, enlarged pore size, redness, roughness, dryness, and decreased elasticity. Bush also shares that in a not-yet-published gene-regulation full-thickness skin-model study, Bonicel was found to increase the expression of a gene relating to collagen production. This, he says, provides further support for the claim that Bonicel may have skin-firming and anti-wrinkle activity.
The ingredient has been used in a variety of topical applications, including Murad and Healthy Directions skincare products, and can be incorporated into lotions, creams, soaps, shampoos, and other personal-care products.
Shaheen Majeed, marketing director for Sabinsa Corp. (East Windsor, NJ), a manufacturer, supplier, and marketer of herbal extracts, cosmeceuticals, minerals, and dietary supplements, calls the topical use of probiotics “an interesting new trend with incredible potential.” He says the company’s LactoSpore shelf-stable probiotic is being incorporated into soaps, bath salts, haircare products, and creams.
Majeed also singles out Sabinsa’s SabiWhite ingredient, a colorless natural extract derived from turmeric (Curcuma longa) rhizomes, as demonstrating clinical potential for hyperpigmentation disorders. “Tetrahydrocurcumin is one of the major metabolites of curcumin,” Majeed says. “This is valued as a topical antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent with superior free-radical scavenging and lipid-peroxidation-inhibition efficacy as compared to vitamin E.” Demand for this ingredient is high in Southeast Asia, Majeed adds.
In case you missed our June 9th, 2016, webcast, "Natural Beauty Ingredients, Inside and Out," you can watch it on-demand. Learn about the latest trends and ingredient research around the globe for natural beauty products, both topical and ingestible: www.nutritionaloutlook.com/no/natural
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